The Kill Fee
One year ago, I was assigned the biggest story of my career (thus far) for a magazine I’d give up my firstborn to write under. The editor rejected it in totality, saying, “It isn’t what we are looking for.” That loss and a 101-degree fever brought a few lifestyle changes. I haven’t pitched a fashion story since.
Every passing day comes closer to another fashion week. AND with the rise of the shopping newsletter, I am crawling out of a hole with a year's worth of perspective, proud to share this story I never stopped loving: an interview with Carly Mark, one of the most impressive designers living and working in New York.
I received $100 for writing this story, or what the industry calls a ‘kill fee.’
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On a cloudy Thursday in Midtown, three days before her 8th season premiere, Puppets & Puppets designer Carly Mark waltzed into her office and greeted her team with gusto. Wearing a black hoodie, black Rosalía branded sweatpants, and black pointed-toe heels from her previous collection, she clutched her wire-haired chihuahua Puppet while overseeing the progress of everything. Models with attitude walked in and out of the glass office as PR fretted over the seating chart. Her team was abuzz, making phone calls, sending emails, and deciding what coffee to order. It was a typical day at the studio, only a bit busier. Mark doesn’t always spend 12 hours there, but she spends more than that in the weeks leading up to her shows. Before sitting in front of the collection, Mark put Puppet in one of many conference rooms. “He’s only bitten two models so far, but he’s really very sweet.”
There is something so graceful about the way she floats around the room, smiling at everyone, not stressed because fashion comes naturally to her in the way she dresses and designs. Trained as a fine artist, she knew she was meant to be a designer. At a young age, her mom instilled in her that she would move to New York and join the industry. She grew up in Detroit but was destined for more.
Bridging the gap between art and design, Mark studied at SVA before working in galleries and as an artist for ten years. As a painter and sculptor, transitioning into design brought together everything she loved. Inspired by Lou Dallas, Susan Ciancolo, and Eckhaus Latta, Mark knew she’d have something to say. “There is this fine art sensibility in fashion, but I didn't think about it until I was involved.”
With the brand entering its 5th year, she’s fallen more in love and brought a cult following with her. It’s rare to go downtown without seeing someone wearing a cookie purse or rhinestoned logo sweater. Her pieces are conversation starters, although Mark says she lives in her own bubble.
The fall/winter collection pushes different boundaries for the brand, with exaggerated pleating, floral details, shoes with fried eggs on them, silk trains, and an ode to men's suits. Mark often starts with film when coming up with ideas. This season, she paid homage to David Cronenberg and the 1988 film Dead Ringers.
The same year Mark was born, this film stars Jeremy Irons as twin doctors who slowly descend into madness. “We’re all still affected by the pandemic and what we went through. People are coming out of it, but there’s this residue simultaneously, and everyone wants to feel free and sexy.” Subtle body horror, shades of red, and psychological thrills are jumping points for creating suits and soft-draped gowns. Pieces in the collection have structure. Mini dresses have cut-out panels, and wool outerwear has boning in the center to accentuate the female form.
But who is the ideal Puppets and Puppets girl? “Anyone who isn’t afraid to be bold.” Mark thinks of Tilda Swinton, Doja Cat, and Rosalía as women she’d like to see in the brand. “Women in Argento films who are unafraid of fashion,” Mark notes that every collection feels more like her.
What does the future hold for Puppets and Puppets? A physical store and a job as the head of a heritage brand. “I’m grateful for my New York Puppets community. I would love to expand internationally. I want people wearing my pieces in every city.” She looks at the trajectory of her brand and is shocked by its evolution. Mark notes that her hair changes every season as she does too.
The latest collection is haunting, sexy menswear for women. Mark has gone through so much growth to get there because now she is sure of herself. With 16 years of living in New York, the chicest circle of friends, and an attitude that has taken her far, nothing can stop her.
As for her advice to anyone who wants to be in her place? “Just do it. This is my boyfriend, this is my child, this is my job, this is everything.” Puppets & Puppets is the revolution we’ve been waiting for, and it’s only taken a handful of resin chocolate chip cookies atop Nappa leather to get there.